Spring Wildflowers

Rick Gibson

University of Arizona Cooperative Extension

Pinal County

Winter rains this year created a good display of wildflowers.  I hope you were able to get out and enjoy them while they lasted.

A spectacular year for wildflowers means that the desert is awash in color. The flanks of desert mountains, such as Picacho Peak, are colored gold, blue and yellow.  The desert floors, not just the sides of highways, are colonized by flows of color.  In poor years, there are few if any blossoms to enjoy.  While we did not get to see the truly spectacular in 2013 it was still a pretty good year.

Pinal County is a great place to see desert wildflowers. The best displays are usually found on the slopes of rocky hillsides and along paved roads.  Rocks, pebbles and gravel help mulch the desert soils and slow evaporation.  Paved roads shed water to the sides and irrigate young seedlings. The extra moisture works to the advantage of the wildflowers which need regular moisture to carry them through to maturity.  Highway 79 from Florence Junction to Oracle Junction is often a great place to see wildflowers.  You sometimes can also find a decent display along US 60 from Apache Junction to Superior, and along other paved roads in the county.  Boyce Thompson Arboretum in Superior and Picacho Peak State Park between Eloy and Redrock are great places to see the flowers up close and personal.

How do you know if it is going to be a good wildflower year?  Ample and timely winter rains that begin in November and come at two week intervals during the winters months almost always bring about a lavish display of desert wildflowers in the spring.  Here are a few tips to prepare for finding and enjoying wildflowers.

First, make the experience more enjoyable by learning the names and a little basic information about the flowers you see.  Unless you are really into botany, it will be hard to know them all, but start with the more common flowers and work from there.  Take some kind of a reference book with you to help you identify and learn about that particular flower.  A good field guide, preferably with color pictures, will prove to be an invaluable friend.   Botanical gardens and arboretums often have educational displays that describe these plants.  They might even have sections on display where nameplates identify wildflower plants.  Another choice would be to join in on a tag-along tour guided by a native plant expert.  I like to learn as much about the plant as I can.

Second, don’t just look at color alone.  Be aware also of the various arrays of textures, the interaction of the flowers with the natural environment and how the various colors intermingle with one another to present a full, broad picture.  Look also at the structure of the flower; how the petals are arranged and if they have more than one color in the bloom.  Artists have long known that to truly replicate the scene on canvas, they have to pay attention to the way light filters through the plant parts, particularly the petals.  Wildflower blooms are often intricate mixtures of colors and textures that often go unnoticed when we focus on only one piece of the puzzle.

For added enjoyment, I recommend that you also pay attention to how the flower fits into its native environment.  Why did it attract your attention?.  What is it that made you look at it, and how did you feel when you did?  For example, a desert marigold along the side of a road attracts the eye, gives a sense of color and fits into a larger plant community.  A single desert marigold growing next to a large granite boulder may give a totally different feel or view.  Your first thought may be one of isolation, or solitude and quiet.  A pocket notebook is a handy place to jot down your observations so that you can go back during the heat of the summer and remember a great Arizona experience.

Finally, learn a new flower each time you go out.  Over one hundred different species of wildflowers have been identified in our area alone and the search is always on for new and different varieties.  Many flower enthusiasts keep a record of the species that they see each year.  They consider this as part of the fun of searching for and identifying these beautiful plants.  They compare their lists from year to year to see what has changed and then share what they have found with friends and acquaintances.  This interchange of ideas from season to season not only makes for good conversation, it also helps to truly begin to understand the fragile, intricate web of life in the desert.

Of the many species that can be found locally, some become old friends because they are seen just about every year.  Others may be new acquaintances.  The more common varieties include the gold-colored California poppy, the deep blue lupine, the yellow desert marigold, the purple filaree and the orange globemallow.  We expect to see these flowers whenever there is even a hint of effective moisture.  However, it is fun to also look for the less common species like the rock purslane, evening primrose and scarlet pimpernel. 

Many people capture the beauty of the desert in their own yards by planting wildflowers in desert landscapes and then giving them extra water during dry winters to ensure that the flowers will germinate, grow and produce seed for the next year.  There are many yards that have spectacular displays even during the driest of years.

Most wildflowers can be planted from seed and are fairly easy to grow.  They do not need fertilizer or special care other than regular and frequent irrigations.  Seed of some of the more common varieties, such as the California poppy, can be purchased from nurseries, but it is too late this year to plant them.  Wildflower mixes are usually planted in November for a spring bloom. 

Some seed companies specialize in native plants.  Seed for individual species as well blends can be ordered through their catalogues.  Again, extra irrigation, beginning in the late fall and continuing through the flower season, will produce a bumper crop even in low rainfall years.

Wildflowers are fleeting, at best.  Soon the rains stop, the summer heat returns, the desert enters its summer dormant state and the displays are finished until the next time the winter rains come early and frequent.  No one can predict when that will be so be ready to enjoy them when you can. 

If you have questions, you can reach a Master Gardener at the Cooperative Extension office, 820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Building C, in Casa Grande.  The telephone is (520) 836-5221, extension 204.  The author’s email address is gibsonrd@ag.arizona.edu.

The University of Arizona is an equal opportunity, affirmative action institution.  The University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, veteran status, or sexual orientation in its programs and activities.

Rick Gibson
Extension Agent, Agriculture
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Building C
Casa Grande, Arizona 85222
Voice:    (520) 836-5221
Fax:    (520) 836-1750
email:    gibsonrd@ag.arizona.edu

Pruning Freeze Damaged Plants

The intense, freezing temperatures this winter caused considerable damage to many Pinal County plants and some of you are wondering how to prune out the damage.

Before we get into that, let’s review some basic facts about citrus that will help us make good decisions when it comes time to prune.  Unlike deciduous fruit trees such as peaches, apricots and apples, it is important to remember that citrus do not need to be pruned every year to ensure good fruit production and tree health.  Neither do we need to prune citrus to reduce fruit load like we do in the deciduous fruit varieties.  Citrus branches are strong and flexible and can carry a heavy load without breaking.

Another reason to avoid going hog wild with the pruning shears is loss of production. Citrus fruit is borne on the tender tips of branches out near the outside edge of the tree.  Removal of these tips by shaving or pruning significantly reduces the ability of the tree to produce fruit each year.  Removal of the bottom tier of branches to give the tree a ‘typical’ tree look can eliminate up to a third of the total fruit production capability of these plants.

The last reason to not prune citrus is plant health.  Citrus trees have tender bark that is easily sunburned when sunlight strikes unprotected wood.  Usually the heavy canopy of leaves shades and protects the trunk and major branches of the tree, but when branches are removed or foliage is shaved from the tree, the bark is often exposed to the sunlight.  Sunburned bark can often be found on the southwest side of citrus tree trunks whose bottom skirt of branches has been removed.

What about the lower branches that drag fruit on the ground?  That is a good reason to prune out low hanging wood but if you want a highly productive, healthy tree, remember to only take off those branches that are causing the problem and no more.

Okay, let’s talk freeze damage.  Dead and dying wood is showing up in a number of different plants this year.  Besides citrus, other plants showing significant freeze damage include bougainvillea, ‘petite’ oleanders, palm trees and Queens wreath vines.  In some cases, the entire plant has died.  In other cases, damage is minimal.

Severity of damage is dependent upon many factors.  The age of the plant, the specific weather conditions around the plant, and its genetic make up play a key role in whether a plant will be damaged or not.

Before doing any cutting, we need to be able to distinguish between dead leaves and dead wood.  Just because a tree is completely defoliated from the cold weather and looks ‘dead’ does not necessarily mean that the twigs and branches of the plant have been killed.  It fact, they may not be damaged at all.  For these reasons, it is essential that before you cut, you need to find out what is dead and what may still be alive.  Be careful here because, particularly in citrus, you do not want to prune off any more wood than is necessary.

We tell the difference between dead wood and live wood by doing the scratch test.  This is done by scratching the surface of the bark gently with a thumbnail or a knife.  If the wood underneath the bark is green and moist, it is still alive.  If it is hard, dry and brown underneath, it is dead.  While this sounds easy, and most of the year it is, the time right after the damage occurs is a time of transition and it can be tough to tell the damaged wood from the healthy wood.  Because of this period of slow decline, we recommend putting off any pruning until you can clearly tell the difference between what is dead and what is alive.

Another reason to avoid haste in getting out the pruning equipment is that you never know when there will be another frost or freeze.  Even dead wood and leaves can be a big help in protecting and sheltering the live wood underneath.  The average date of the last killing frost in lower elevations of Pinal County is March 6.  Remember, it is just an average.  We could possibly still see a killing frost even after that date.  While there is currently a warming trend forecast, I am not ready to say never yet.

I know, those damaged plants look ugly and you may be feeling some pressure to get them cleaned up.  From a horticulture standpoint, there is good reason to delay pruning at least until after the first week of March, and longer if it looks like the weather forecast might still include frost or freezing weather.  When you read this article, check the ten day weather forecast on the Internet and see what it looks like.  If the projected warming trend looks like it is going to hold, schedule your pruning day.  However, weather forecasts can change quickly so be sure to take a look before you start.

Okay, you have decided that the time is right and today is the day to do the pruning.  Here is what you do.  The first step is to get all of your equipment together.  I use a good set of bypass loppers for wood that is larger than a regular wooden pencil.  For smaller stuff, I use a pair of bypass hand shears.  Avoid the anvil types where the lower jaw is flat, not scissor-like.  It tends to crush tender wood that you want to keep.

The next step is to look at the specific plant to be pruned and determine what needs to come off and what needs to stay.  For citrus, you will want to nip back the dead branch tips to a point where all of the dead wood is gone and you only cut only a very little bit of live wood.  I would prune back to a point just above an outside bud.  An outside bud is one that heads in a direction out from the tree, not in towards the center of the tree.  All cuts should be at a 45 degree angle across the twig with the lower point of the cut just above the bud you are going to keep.  Follow the same procedure for bougainvillea and oleanders.

The Queen’s wreath vine is particularly susceptible to freeze damage and most are probably looking pretty bad about now.  The best step is to do the scratch test on major vines down near the ground and see if you can tell dead wood from live wood.  The dead strands are very fragile and will snap off fairly easy.  Live wood will be not be brittle.  Leave those vines in place and retrain them up on your trellis because they will start growing again presently.  Most other vines will be similar.

Finally, lets talk about palm trees.  The palm most susceptible to freeze damage is the queen palm but others can also be injured.  Some make it and some do not.  It all depends upon whether the growing tip of the trunk, the bud area at the top of the tree, has survived.  If it has died, the tree is dead and needs to come out.  If it is still showing some green, I would give it a chance and see if it recovers.  Palms can suffer considerable leaf damage and still be okay.  This is a case where the plant just needs time to recover.

Injured plants need some extra care to help them through the time of their recovery.  Make sure that they are not stressed for water and feed them with nitrogen just before growth resumes.  Since trees are beginning to show signs of budding, now is a good time to get that done.

Frost or freeze damaged plants can be cleaned up at any time but remember that what may seem dead today may actually be simply dormant.

If you have questions, you can reach one of the Master Gardeners at the Cooperative Extension office, 820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Building C, in Casa Grande.  The telephone is (520) 836-5221.  The author’s email address is gibsonrd@ag.arizona.edu.

The University of Arizona is an equal opportunity, affirmative action institution.  The University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, veteran status, or sexual orientation in its programs and activities.


Rick Gibson
Extension Agent, Agriculture
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Building C
Casa Grande, Arizona 85222
Voice:    (520) 836-5221
Fax:    (520) 836-1750
email:    gibsonrd@ag.arizona.edu

Managing and Maintaining a Drip Irrigation System

Managing and Maintaining a Drip Irrigation System

Rick Gibson

Cooperative Extension Agent, Agriculture

Pinal County, ARizona

If you have a drip irrigation system, now is a good time to perform regular maintenance chores and make needed repairs.

The cooler months of the year are a good time to work on drip irrigation systems because 1) the plants demand less water when its cool, 2) the leaves are off of our deciduous plants and we can see the system better and, 3) the cool weather is much more pleasant for us to work in than the 100 plus degree weather of June and July, the time when we usually find drip system problems.  A little extra attention now can save a lot of grief later on.

Well designed and managed drip irrigation systems deliver the proper amounts life-giving water to the root zones of plants.  When everything works as it should, plants flourish.  When the system does not work properly, well, let’s just say that problems can arise.

In order for any plant to be healthy, there must be a balance of energy between the top part of the plant and the bottom part of the plant.  Stated another way, there must be sufficient strength stored in the roots to support the activity of the leaves; and there must be generated enough energy in the leaves to support the function of the roots.  When any plant goes out of balance, for whatever reason, serious problems can occur.

For example, when root systems die back because of disease or lack of water, there are less roots to support the top growth of the plant, leaving more branches and leaves than roots.   The plant is out of balance.  Because there is not enough strength to balance the top, the tree begins to lose leaves and sometimes even twigs and branches in severe situations. 

When I see a tree or shrub with sparse leaves and maybe twigs dying back, I am immediately suspicious that the roots are, for one reason or another, not getting enough water.  If you have a tree or shrub in your yard, it is a good idea to look critically at the growth patterns at least once a year.   While problems are easy to see in the summer, that is exactly the time when the plant is under the greatest stress and when most damage occurs.  For this reason, I like to check for problems in the late spring at the latest. 

Flood irrigation has its own set of rules and challenges, but today we are talking drip systems so lets focus there.  Remember, most of the small feeder roots that do the work of absorbing nutrients and water from the soil are going to be found out towards the edge of the plant.  Placement of emitters is one of the first places to look for problems.  It is important that our system wet as much of the soil where these roots are found as possible.  A large tree is going to take more than one or two emitters.  If you need to add emitters, start there.

Other problems arise within the system itself.  This is where regular inspection and maintenance pays off.

First, I like to start with the filter, usually found at the upper end of your system next to the water source.  It needs to be cleaned at least twice a year. To check the filter, open the filter canister and visually inspect the filter. If it is clogged, rinse or scrub it lightly until it is clean.  If the filter is damaged, it will need to be replaced.  Never run a system without a filter because any debris, even the tiniest, can clog emitters down the line.

Check the valves and make sure that they are working correctly.  If the timer tells a valve to turn on, and it doesn’t obey, you may have a faulty valve, a broken or frayed wire or a clog in the equipment.  You will need to troubleshoot this problem before going down the line.

If the valves turn on and off correctly, check the emitters while the system is running.  Danger signs include puddling of water on the surface of the soil away from the emitters or no water coming out of an emitter.  Puddles or wet soil away from the emitters usually means a broken or cracked line.  It will need to be replaced.  If there is no water coming from an emitter while the system is running, it generally is an indication of a clogged line or plugged emitter. These must be cleaned or replaced. 

Don’t forget that some leaks in drip system lines may actually be caused by small animals in search of a drink of water.  Gophers, rabbits and other animals frequently will chew on tubing above or below ground and then enjoy the water fountain.  If this is the problem, repairs can get frustrating.  You may want to fix the animal problem at the same time.

Finally, the entire system needs to be flushed out twice a year because debris, algae and salts tend to accumulate in the lines over time.  To flush out the lines, simply remove the end cap of the line and let the system run for thirty seconds.  This will allow all of the bad stuff to run out of the line.  The end cap can then be replaced.  Work your way through the entire system until all lines have been flushed.

Once you have checked your system and fixed problems you should be in good shape for the season.  This is not to say that there may not be a problem tomorrow.  Anything can break, but at least you are starting fresh.  To prevent system failures, it is a good idea to check the equipment regularly to see if anything has gone awry. 

Let me finish with a final note.  Do not forget to adjust your irrigation schedule as the weather warms. Plants require and use more water during the warm months than they do in either the spring or fall.  The hotter the weather, the more water plants will need.  When the weather cools, the opposite is true. 

Correct timing requires regular adjustments to the time clock to make sure the plants are getting enough water.  If you have set your timer once and never looked at it again, your plants may be getting too much water in the winter and not enough in the summer.  If indeed this is the case, please do not blame your irrigation system if plants die.  It is not the system, it is management.

Now is a good time to service your drip irrigation system.  A little preventative maintenance now may save a lot of grief later on.

If you have questions, you can reach one of the Master Gardeners at the Cooperative Extension office, 820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Building C, in Casa Grande.  The telephone is (520) 836-5221, extension 204.  The author’s email address is gibsonrd@ag.arizona.edu.

The University of Arizona is an equal opportunity, affirmative action institution.  The University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, veteran status, or sexual orientation in its programs and activities.

Rick Gibson
Extension Agent, Agriculture
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Building C
Casa Grande, Arizona 85222
Voice:    (520) 836-5221
Fax:    (520) 836-1750
email:    gibsonrd@ag.arizona.edu

Watch for the Bagrada Bug

Watch for the Bagrada Bug

Rick Gibson

Cooperative Extension Agent, Agriculture

Pinal County, Arizona

Have you heard about the bagrada bug?  It is a relatively new garden pest here in Pinal County.

The bagrada bug, Bagrada hilaris is sometimes known as the painted bug.  Native to Africa, India and Pakistan, it was first spotted in California in June of 2008 and arrived in Yuma in September of 2009. It has since spread to other parts of Arizona including La Paz, Maricopa, Pima, and Pinal counties.

Feeding sites have been found on corn, cotton, potatoes and other crops, but plants related to cabbage seem to be favorite targets.  Cabbage relatives include: kale, mustard, cabbage, arugula, broccoli, cauliflower, radishes and Brussels sprouts.  Look for yellow spots, we call it stippling, along the margin or edges of the leaves.  As feeding gets heavier, the stippled areas merge and the leaf can eventually wilt and die.

Another more serious symptom is “blind head,” a problem in heading species like broccoli and cauliflower.  These vegetables develop a flowering head, which is the part that we eat.  Bagrada bug feeding can keep the head from developing.

The bagrada bug is a true bug, that means that it is classified in the order Hemiptera.  Like all true bugs, it has a piercing-sucking mouthpart, six legs and a triangular-shaped shield on its back.  Other true bugs include the lygus bug, the stink bug and the leaf-footed plant bug.  All are major agricultural pests in Pinal County.

The insect piercing-sucking mouth part is most easily compared to our familiar soda straw.  The straw is a tool to get liquid from a cup or can to our mouths.  Likewise, the insect uses its mouth part to pierce the outer defenses of the plant and slurp up the nutritious plant juices.  This is obviously not healthy for the plant because it is losing important nutrients and fluids to the invading insect.  A heavy population of insects can drain a plant in short order.

The insect is about one-quarter of an inch long with a black body that is splotched with orange and white markings.  Some of the markings are distinct, large spots.  Those along the center of the back, however are stretched into long lines.  The colors are distinctive, but resemble those of a harlequin bug, another distant relative. Be careful that you do not confuse the two. If you are into gardening, you may want to get a copy of a good color photograph and keep it handy so that you can compare what you have with the photo.   

To download a photograph and get additional  information, go to the University of Arizona Cooperative  Extension website at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/az1588.pdf and type in bagrada in the search line.  You can print off the PDF version of the publication without charge.  Another option is to go through your web browser and search for the name of the insect.  There are many sites with good photographs.

While the bagrada bug does have wings, it seems to prefer walking more than flying.  Once the insect finds a good place to feed, it tends to settle down and stay a while.   The life cycle of the insect begins with an egg laid by a female adult.  She generally will lay the egg on the ground underneath the plant but sometimes she will select a site on the plant itself.  Look for creamy-white, oval-shaped eggs with a band around it that make it look like a lid.  The eggs change in color to orange as they mature.

As a true bug, it does not produce a caterpillar stage that looks completely different from the adult, like moths and butterflies.  Instead, the newly hatched insect closely resembles the adult stage.  The young are called nymphs.  In the immature stages of growth, they lack wings and can only walk to move around.  There are five juvenile stages that each insect must pass through before they become adults.  These newly hatched nymphs are colored orange-red and get darker as they mature into the later juvenile stages.

If they show up in your garden, be ready for a blitz.  They like to gather together in large clusters and as many a 2,000 nymphs of different stages have been seen feeding on a single cabbage plant.  Talk about stress! No wonder affected plants go into shock.  If we want healthy plants, we should never let a population get that big.

So, how do we do that?  A good plan of action will include frequent monitoring of plants and a careful balance of cultural control methods including the use of a mixture of nonchemical and chemical control tools.  Here are some specific guidelines recommended by entomologists down in the Yuma area where they have been battling the bug. 

First, make sure that you check your plants regularly, at least weekly, to look for eggs on the leaves or soil.  Allyssum is a known host for the bagrada bug and that is a good place to start looking if you have some planted in your yard.

Second, hand pick the insects early in the season to help keep populations down.  If you are squeamish, use gloves or a tool like a pocket comb or small paint brush to pick them up and drop them into a container where they can stay until you destroy them.  They are relatively easy to find because they tend to group together.

Third, cultivate the soil around your plants with a hoe or other tool to break the crust of the soil and bury or destroy any eggs that might be lurking on the soil.  At the same time, get rid of any crop debris and weeds that might be harboring the insects.

Fourth, use a soapy water solution to spray the insects, especially nymphs.  Insecticidal soap sprays tend to clog the breathing holes of the insects and break down the soft, outer protective layers of the insect leading.

Fifth, use an insecticide containing a pyrethroid to clean up residual populations.  I know that for some that this may not even be an option, and I suggest this as a last resort because no one really enjoys dousing something that they will eventually eat with pesticides.  However, used correctly, these pesticides are safe to use.  Just be sure that you follow label instructions when mixing, applying and waiting the proper interval before you pick and eat the produce.  If populations explode on you and you cannot seem to get ahead of them this may be your best option. 

If you end up with a heavy dose of the bug on your plants and can’t seem to get them under control, it will be important to cut your losses and get rid of the infested plants.  Pull them up and toss them out.  If you don’t, the adults will keep laying eggs until the end of the season and you will end up with an insect population waiting in the soil until you plant again.  Not a pleasant thought.

The Bagrada bug is a new garden pest that could complicate our efforts for high quality, home grown vegetables.  However, by carefully monitoring our gardens and treating for these pests in a timely manner, we should be able to prevent serious problems.

If you have questions, you can reach one of the Master Gardeners at the Cooperative Extension office, 820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Building C, in Casa Grande.  The telephone is (520) 836-5221, extension 204.  The author’s email address is gibsonrd@ag.arizona.edu.

The University of Arizona is an equal opportunity, affirmative action institution.  The University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, veteran status, or sexual orientation in its programs and activities.

Rick Gibson

Extension Agent, Agriculture

University of Arizona Cooperative Extension

820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Building C

Casa Grande, Arizona 85222

Voice:  (520) 836-5221

Fax:     (520) 836-1750

Cell:     (520) 705-1141

email:   gibsonrd@ag.arizona.edu

Dealing with Africanized Honey Bees

    Dealing with Africanized Honey Bees
    Rick Gibson
    Cooperative Extension Agent, Agriculture
    Pinal County, Arizona

This period of warm and mostly dry summer weather is a great time to get out and bee proof your home and sheds because, absolutely, you do not want Africanized honey bees to move in and become your not-so-friendly neighbors.

The beneficial value of honey bees to our lifestyle cannot be underscored.  They pollinate our crops and provide us with the wax and honey that is so critical to our livelihoods.  This makes them an important part of our living environment.  Because of this, bees should be protected and managed to provide the needed resources of food and fiber upon which our lives are based.  It is only the wild hives and swarms, especially those that have become Africanized, that require our careful and constant attention.

Africanized bees are given their name because of their native home.  European bees came originally from Europe and likewise the Africanized bees came from Africa.  The strain from Africa, as you know, can be a real pain, in more ways than one.  Not only are they more defensive of their hives than their European cousins, but they also invade cavities in our trees, houses, out buildings, lumber stacks, and other similar locations to build their nests.  Once they are there it is difficult, and expensive, to get them out.  Prevention is much better than waiting until there is a problem.

The on-going drought has been tough on honey bees and because of that the relative number of swarms, fragments of the hive who break off to form a new hive, have been much less than what we normally see in a wetter year.  Because bees need water and pollen in order to thrive, bee colonies in dry areas struggle to survive.  Still, if we do get some rain this summer, we need to be prepared when swarming picks up.

Experienced people well know that Africanized honey bees are nothing to disregard.  Their nasty temperament makes them extremely dangerous and we just can not afford to let them take up residence anywhere near our homes.  Now is a good time to review the facts about these important, but sometimes threatening animals and talk about how we can make sure they do not find a nice spot and move in. 

While domesticated honey bees that are regularly managed by qualified beekeepers pose little threat to people, pets and domesticated animals, wild honey bees can be either a nuisance or a danger, depending upon where they are and how long they have been there. For those who may be new to Southern Arizona, it may be helpful to explain about our current honey bee situation.

In our area, there are two main forms of the honey bee, the European honey bee, which has been with us for centuries, and the Africanized honey bee, which is a relatively new arrival in the Southwest.  Both strains are quite similar in all ways, except for behavior.  They look alike.  They have similar work habits.  They produce the same type of honey and they are so closely related that they can exchange genes during the reproductive cycle.  In fact, the differences that once made it possible to distinguish between the two types are now, through the reproductive process, quickly fading away. 

It is also important to know that colonies of honey bees frequently and regularly go through the swarming process.  The creation of a swarm of bees is usually the natural and expected process of forming new queens, dividing up the workers, and sending out colonizing swarms to set up housekeeping in new locations.  This “change of address” process is the way bees expand their numbers and ensure the safety of the species.  Swarming usually takes place during the spring and early fall periods locally.

Another type of colony movement can also occur, especially with Africanized honey bees.  When the colony decides that they are in the wrong place, such as when the location is too exposed, too hot or too dry, or not enough food available, the entire hive may simply move out on a moments notice.  This type of swarming is referred to as ‘absconding’.  Absconding can take place at any time in our area.  It is extremely important to keep up our guard even when we would least expect new arrivals. 

In spite of all the similarities, and the benefits, of the two types of honey bees, it is the difference in behavior between the two strains that should keep us on our toes.  It is no secret that the Africanized honey bee has a nasty temper.  While the European honey bee is a relatively passive and mild bee that has proven to be easy to work and stable in its living arrangements, the Africanized honey bee continually shows its normal, impulsive nature. 

Okay, let’s stop here for an aside.  I do not want anyone to blame the Africanized bees for their behavior.  It really isn’t their fault.  They are simply prompted by an urgent instinct to protect the hive.  In their proper place, they cause little problem.  Unfortunately, their habits are so dangerous that in residential areas we have to brand them as social outcasts and unacceptable pests in and around our homes and working areas.
   
When honey bee hives, especially wild, untended hives, are established in close contact with places where people, pets, and livestock live and work, problems can arise. Since wild colonies, those found outside a reputable beekeeper’s box, are probably Africanized, once again let me stress that it is essential to watch for, and eliminate, any hives that locate onto our property.  Otherwise, we set ourselves up for a serious stinging situation in the future.

Now just because you see honey bees in your yard or around your swimming pool or sprinkler heads, there is no reason to panic.  Honey bees live in large groups of up to 60,000 bees.  Single worker bees can fly as far as six miles to collect pollen and nectar from flowers to feed themselves and their offspring.  Sometimes they visit hummingbird feeders for sugar water.  They also collect water from birdbaths, swimming pools or pet watering dishes.  Bees gathering food will sting only if they are trapped in clothing, stepped on or otherwise threatened.  Single foraging bees should be left alone.

If you regularly see many bees, however, you should be alert to the possibility there may be a wild honey bee colony nearby.  Look for numerous bees flying in and out of an opening such as a crack in the wall, in or underneath outbuildings, or through the cover of a water valve box.  These wild, untended hives cause us the greatest concern.  The vast majority of wild hives in our area are Africanized and since it is difficult to tell the good guys from the bad guys, we have to assume for our own safety that all wild hives are Africanized honey bees.

If you do find a swarm or an established bee colony in your neighborhood, keep everyone away from the bees.  Consult the telephone directory for pest control operators who will remove or destroy the bees.  In most cases, a swarm resting on a tree or structure will usually move on to a new home in a very short period of time.  If their presence lasts for several days, they are probably setting up a new hive. 

Do not try to remove the colonies yourself!  Never shoot, throw rocks at, pour gasoline on, burn, treat with pesticides, or otherwise threaten established honey bee colonies.  Do not ignore bee colonies around your home, even if they do not seem to be a problem.  Small colonies that have recently set up housekeeping may be docile at first, but can become more defensive as the colony matures.  You should have wild honey bees removed immediately by a trained professional.

If you accidentally disturb a colony or are attacked, run away as fast as you can.  Get to the shelter of a house or car as quickly as possible.  Because the bees target the head and eyes, try to cover your head as much as you can, without slowing your progress.  Do not flail or attempt to swat the bees, just get away fast. 

Many people when they are attacked are tempted to jump into a swimming pool to get away from the bees.  This is not a good idea.  The bees are smart enough to know that you have to come up for air sometime.  They tend to hover above the surface of the water waiting for you to come up for air.  It doesn’t take a lot of imagination to figure out what happens next.   

If you see someone being attacked by bees, encourage them to run away or seek shelter.  Do not attempt to rescue them yourself unless you have a bee suit and proper training.  Call 911 for emergency help. 

If you are stung by bees, you should examine yourself, or have someone else check for embedded stingers.  When a honey bee stings, it often leaves its stinger and venom sac behind in the skin.  This will eventually kill the bee.  Unfortunately, the venom sac is still functional and will continue to pump venom through the stinger into the skin until it is empty.  Do not compress the stinger by trying to pull it out with tweezers or fingers.  This will only squeeze more venom into the wound.  Scrape the stingers out using your fingernail, the edge of a credit card, or with a dull knife.  If you feel ill, if there appears to be an allergic reaction to the bee venom, or if you have been stung more than fifteen times, seek medical attention immediately.

If we all stay alert and keep the swarms of bees from setting up permanent homes in urban areas, they will keep on moving out into their natural element where their nasty tempers will not generally be a threat to people.  By keeping our living areas clear of these nasty-tempered pests, we can continue to enjoy the benefits without enduring any unnecessary risks.

If you have questions, you can reach one of the Master Gardeners at the Cooperative Extension office, 820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Building C, in Casa Grande.  The telephone is (520) 836-5221, extension 204.

The University of Arizona is an equal opportunity, affirmative action institution.  The University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, veteran status, or sexual orientation in its programs and activities.

Rick Gibson
Extension Agent, Agriculture
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Building C
Casa Grande, Arizona 85222
Voice:    (520) 836-5221
Fax:    (520) 836-1750
email:    gibsonrd@ag.arizona.edu

 

Is the Keyhole Garden Right for You?

By Rick Gibson

Cooperative Extension Agent, Agriculture

Pinal County, Arizona

If anyone has a keyhole garden, please let me know.  I am anxious to find out how they do here in our Arizona deserts.

Named for their distinctive shape, keyhole gardens are used commonly in water stressed areas of Africa to help families grow healthy vegetables.  Quoting the BBC, one report stated that three keyhole gardens have been known to support a family of ten with fresh vegetables all year long.  If true, it sure impresses me.

Here in the desert, we are always looking for new ways to grow fresh, tasty vegetables, cut down on the labor and save water.  From what I am reading, a keyhole garden might be just the ticket.  I haven’t yet tried one myself, but I am figuring someone out there has.  If you have a keyhole garden, or know someone who does, I would sure like to hear from you.

For those who may be unfamiliar with the concept, let me explain.  A keyhole garden is a raised bed structure, about six feet in diameter and about three feet high.  Some gardens are shorter and some are taller.  The round shape of the garden itself; a basket-type structure in the center of the bed where composting of kitchen wastes and other materials occurs; and a notch in the wall of the bed to allow easy access to the basket give a keyhole garden its name.  Viewed from above, the shape of the bed, basket and notch resemble an old fashioned key hole in a door.

The central basket might be a new concept for some.  It sits right in the middle of the garden and can either be round or square depending upon the materials from which it is constructed, or the whims of the builder.  Most baskets that I have studied seem to be about one foot in diameter.  Some are slightly larger.  In Africa, they are mostly made from tree branches and vines, all locally grown.  In America, some baskets have been constructed from branches, plastic netting or other materials.  No matter how it is constructed, it is the nutritional and water hub of the garden. 

It is into this central basket that vegetable kitchen wastes, lawn trimmings and other biodegradable plant materials are regularly added.  These materials breakdown over time through the composting process and provide essential nutrients for the garden plants.  The basket is also designed to receive extra water, generally from a hose or bucket.  In Africa, excess water from the kitchen or laundry is poured into the basket.  From there it distributes out through the garden. In America, a drip system is sometimes used to provide water in a timely manner. 

The garden itself is almost always six feet in diameter.  This is important because a smaller bed will not enough room to grow a good crop of vegetables.  A larger diameter would make it difficult to reach the innermost garden plants from the outer edge of the bed.  If the central basket is one foot in diameter and the total garden six, subtracting the one foot basket area, makes the total reach from any given point from the perimeter of the bed about two and one-half feet, an easy reach even for adults but a stretch for children.  The diameter of the garden should not be any more than six feet, especially if the garden is going to be a family project.

The notch in the bed extends far enough into the garden to allow access to the basket.  Access is needed to add composting materials and water to the garden through the basket.  I am not sure how the movement of nutrients and water from the basket to the plants will work under our hot climatic conditions.  This is where we need some local, practical experience.

In Africa, the composting materials release nitrogen and other nutrients which are made available to the plants, especially when the only source of water comes from the basket.  Dissolved in water, the nutrients move through the garden bed to a point where the plant roots can pick them up.  This is logical because of the way the interior of the garden is structured. Let’s talk about that next.

The garden itself is constructed in such a manner that water drains down hill away from the basket and towards the plants. Some reports say that the roots of plants also tend to grow towards the basket and water source. This efficiency helps reduce the water requirements of the garden.  Reports out of Texas indicate that during the recent serious drought, they had to add a drip irrigation system to keep the plants healthy.  Even with a drip irrigation system, the keyhole garden seems to be a low water use garden system.

If you would like to build your own keyhole garden, here is what you do.  First, find a location in a sunny area and measure out a six-foot diameter circle.  Scribe a circle so that you can see the outline.  Next, notch out a section of the circle wide enough to access the basket that will be placed in the center of the garden.  The amount of space needed for this access will be dependent upon the size of the person that will need to squeeze in to do the tasks and the amount of space needed to grow garden plants.  Remember that every square inch of space you allocate for access will be that much space lost to food production.

The walls of the garden are constructed of bricks, paving stones or other firm materials that will keep the garden soil inside the garden.  You can make it as tall as you wish, but it probably should not be made taller than your waist is high.  That makes it easy to work the beds.

Once you have laid the first couple of layers of stone or brick, set your basket or cylinder into place and fill it full of plant material. This will be your compost pile.  Mix in a little regular soil and soak the material to start the composting process.

Outside the basket, and in the garden area, lay down a layer of stiff branches or dried weeds and cover this layer with ordinary cardboard.  Now this is important.  You want the layers to slope away from the basket so that water and nutrients drain away from the basket.  The slope does not need to be too steep; just enough to let the water run down hill.  On top of the cardboard, place a three or four inches of regular soil, followed by a layer of plant material, followed by more soil.  Alternate the layers until the top layer of soil is up to the desired grade.  Add a drip system if you like, or experiment to see if the African drainage model works.  When all is prepared, plant your garden.

I suspect that there will be many questions.  If you want to learn more, and have a computer with internet service, simply do a web search for “keyhole garden.”  I learned a lot that way.      

A keyhole garden is unique; not only in its shape, but also in its intent and productivity.  The objective is to recycle and convert waste materials into productive garden soil and save water in the process.  If you are short of space in your yard, don’t really want to bend over while working in your garden and want to save water while growing healthy vegetables for home use, consider building a keyhole garden.

If you have questions, you can reach one of the Master Gardeners at the Cooperative Extension office, 820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Building C, in Casa Grande.  The telephone is (520) 836-5221, extension 204.  The author’s email address is gibsonrd@ag.arizona.edu.

The University of Arizona is an equal opportunity, affirmative action institution.  The University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, veteran status, or sexual orientation in its programs and activities.

Rick Gibson

Extension Agent, Agriculture

University of Arizona Cooperative Extension

820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Building C

Casa Grande, Arizona 85222

Voice:  (520) 836-5221

Fax:     (520) 836-1750

Cell:     (520) 705-1141

email:   gibsonrd@ag.arizona.edu