Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Come Join The Master Gardener Program


For years the Master Gardener program has provided a wonderful opportunity for people to help others learn and grow gardens and friendships. Please take a few minutes to listen to some of our Pinal County Master Gardener volunteers talk about what the program means to them.

For information on how to join the Master Gardener program contact the Pinal County extension office at: 520-836-5221

For more details about the Master Gardener program in Arizona visit our webpage.



Monday, January 27, 2014

Pruning Deciduous Fruit Trees

With the leaves off of deciduous fruit trees, it is time to prune.

There are two main systems of pruning and each has its place.  The open center system is commonly used for peach, plum and nectarine trees.  The modified central leader system works best for apricots, apples and pears.  Both systems help keep the plant short so that cultural and harvest practices can be more easily carried out. 

The modified central leader system requires the removal of the main stalk or stem during the first year of growth.  The following year will result in the growth of several side branches from which three or four evenly spaced branches can be selected for fruit production.  As the tree grows, a new grouping of lateral branches can be selected every thirty to thirty-six inches along the central leader.  New side branches can be encouraged by cutting back the central leader just above the point where new branches are desired.  Once the form is established, it is simply a matter each year of keeping the tree thinned of small branches in undesirable locations.  Apples, pears, and apricots are commonly pruned to this method.

Apple and pear fruit are mostly borne on spurs supported by wood that is two years old or more.  Pruning should maintain as many of these spurs as possible.   All cuts should be made to divert growth towards the outside growing points.  With the pear’s upright growth habit, this is a relatively simple procedure.  Thinning new growth forces the tree to produce new fruiting spurs.

The apricot produces most of its fruit on short-lived spurs.  The goal is to remove branches with old spurs and keep the trees producing good replacement wood.  This procedure weeds out unproductive wood and allows light to penetrate to the center of the tree.  This in return forces new spur production.

The open center method results in a vase or bowl shaped appearance to the tree.  It  allows sunlight to more easily penetrate the interior portion of the tree and encourages the development of strong branches that will support a large crop of fruit.  Nectarines, peaches, plums, and sometimes apricots are pruned to this method.

Peach and nectarine fruit are borne on the previous year’s growth and new fruiting wood must be produced each year.  Heavy annual pruning is the rule for these trees.  Remove at least one-half of last year’s growth by cutting back the growth to an outside bud.  Recent growth will be found at the tips of branches, have a different color, and will be above the previous year’s terminal bud scar. Make sure that the limbs which are retained are forced outward.  If numerous laterals are produced from pruning, thin to one or two branches.  While the center of the tree should remain open, it is not advisable to strip the center of all bearing wood.  If all the wood is removed, there will be nothing to protect the tree from sunburn later on.

Plum fruit are borne on spurs two years old or older.  Spurs should not be removed except when potential fruit thinning is desired.  Thin out about one-third of the previous season’s growth by cutting undesirable branches back to their point of origin. 

Citrus cultivars do not need pruning to maintain fruit production like apples, peaches and plums.  The fruit are mainly borne at the tips of the tender branches and removal of these tips will result in reduced fruit production the following year.  However, dead branches that have been shaded out in the interior of the tree can be removed at any time.

Some people desire to shape citrus to a certain form and are not overly concerned with fruit production.  When shaping citrus for ornamental purposes, do not cut so deeply that sunlight will be able to penetrate the canopy and strike the bark of the trunk and limbs.  The wood is extremely sensitive to sunburn and could result in serious damage to the plant.  Again, shaping will reduce fruit production.


If you have questions, call one of our Master Gardeners at 820 E. Cottonwood Lane in Casa Grande.  The telephone is (520) 836-5221, extension 204.  The author’s email address is gibsonrd@ag.arizona.edu.

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